EIFS Moisture Intrusion Testing

This isn’t really a protocol,  but it’s an excellent combination of the “whats and whys” that are involved in a good EIFS inspection. I think it a represents a good “minimum standard”  to be followed.   

THE GAHI PROTOCOL FOR EXTERIOR INSULATION FINISHING SYSTEMS (EIFS)
MOISTURE INTRUSION INSPECTIONS ONE & TWO FAMILY HOMES

This Protocol has been developed in an effort to help both the Consumer, as well as the Home Inspectors who are involved in the testing of EIFS for moisture intrusion.

The North Carolina EIFS Task Force adopted the first recognized standards regarding the testing of EIFS. The GAHI Protocol was developed to allow for differences in construction, as well as advances in equipment available. For instance, North Carolina building code requires solid sheathing-plywood or OSB. Every probe on a house in North Carolina will hit wood. Georgia does not have this requirement. Corners are typically sheathed with plywood or OSB, but the balance of the sheathing is typically gypsum.

The advent of the Tramex Wet Wall Detector has eased the process of inspection. This tester will indicate areas with high or elevated moisture content. This tester will not provide specific moisture content information. An intrusive probe is required for the determination of specific moisture content.

1. Visual inspection of the house

  • The object is to identify and note any problem areas or details that vary from EIFS Industry Member Association (EIMA) standards for inclusion in the report.
  • These items should be noted in the report, as well as referencing the proper EIMA Standards. Inform the client that it is important that they determine the Manufacturer of their EIFS installation. Specifications for installation do vary slightly among the Manufacturers.
  • The general condition of the construction of the house and stucco (EIFS) wall-cladding should be determined.

Terminations:

  • Foam should be backwrapped, have an expansion type joint where EIFS terminates on a driveway, patio, sidewalk, etc. This is typically not done, because the flow of residential construction does not allow for this. The exterior concrete flatwork is usually done late in the schedule.
  • Roof termination

Should be held off of roof a minimum of two (2) inches and backwrapped.

  • Below grade termination

Foam should not terminate below grade. The foam substrate should be backwrapped and sealed to the foundation approximately 6-8 inches above grade. This mainly serves two purposes; it prevents wicking action of the foam and eliminates a termite path into the structure. The foam creates an ideal environment for the termite, which is impossible to treat.

Backwrapping:

Where the foam substrate terminates, it should be backwrapped, in order to provide for proper protection of the foam. Backwrapping also provides for improved attachment of the substrate to the sheathing.

Backer Rod / Sealant: Windows – Expansion Joints – Grade Terminations

The usage of backer rod and sealant is necessary for the proper construction of an isolation type of joint. Flexible and waterproof.

Expansion Joints: Dissimilar Materials – Floor Bands

Expansion joints should be used where EIFS terminates, or meets a dissimilar material. The typical expansion joint is a flexible, watertight joint utilizing backer rod and sealant. Expansion joints at the floor bands are usually 3/4 inch in width; typical joint at windows and doors is 1/2 inch.

Horizontal Surfaces: Trim Bands Quoins

There should be no horizontal (flat) surfaces. All surfaces should slope away from the structure.

Flashing:

Flashing should be utilized to properly direct water away from the structure. Doors, windows and deck attachments are the most typical areas where flashing is used. Although flashing has been required for several years, many builders felt that flashing on stucco-type exteriors was not necessary. Check for proper flashing details. Flashing points, where a gutter meets a side wall, are one of the most common areas for excessive moisture intrusion.

Penetrations

Penetrations should be properly sealed. No foam should be exposed. Look for any penetration, not only the obvious. In addition to pipe penetrations, look for fasteners, lights or any object that passes through the EIFS wall-cladding materials.

Damaged Areas

Damaged areas should be noted in the report. Areas that are cracked or damaged should be repaired. The finish coat and base coat material should be removed. If the insulation board is not damaged, the base coat, mesh and finish coat can be reapplied. If there is damage to the insulation board, remove and replace the damaged section of insulation board, reapply base coat, mesh and finish coat.

2.Test Probe

The inspector should prepare a test probe and the holes filled with a sealant labeled in compliance with ASTM-C920, or of a type recommended by the EIFS Manufacturer. The test probe and the color of the sealant should be approved by the homeowner/client.

3. Moisture Detector

The house should be scanned with a Tramex Wet Wall Detector or equivalent. The idea is to scan, or test, every area where moisture is obvious, but also those areas that might not be so obvious. Including, but not limited to, and easy to exceed:

Corners, outside and inside, both faces – minimum every 2 ft.

Around doors and windows, and below.

At the band, each floor level, every 3 ft.

At flashing points – sidewall and gutter return areas.

Around all wall penetrations.

  • It should be emphasized that the scanners available at this time do not provide adequate information for rendering a conclusive Moisture Intrusion Inspection Report. The technology is limited to providing a basic indication of a possible elevated level of moisture in the area indicated. The areas which the scanner indicates an elevated level of moisture should then be probed using a reliable moisture meter with probes of an adequate length.
  • The use of a scanner is not mandatory. If the individual doing the testing wishes to probe the entire house, this is acceptable. If this is the case, the amount of probing required is extensive.

4. Reporting

  • The high readings, along with the specific location of the readings, should be noted in the report. This is necessary so that in the future, the readings can be referenced for a follow up test. A reference for future testing should be indicated in the report. Time frame should be approximately 6-18 months.
  • The report should indicate the following concerning the readings:

10-19% – Moisture is present in the wall. Additional sealant at the specific area should be sufficient.

20-29% – The source of the water intrusion should be identified, if possible. Appropriate corrective action should be taken to stop the entrance of the water. In many cases, a particular detail may be corrected, or additional sealant installed as a satisfactory corrective measure.

30%+ – This is the fiber saturation point of wood, the level at which decay rapidly begins to occur. The EIFS at these areas should be removed so that the framing can be inspected for indications of rot or decay. Any damaged areas should be repaired or replaced, as necessary.

  • The problem areas should be clearly identified in the report. There should be a system for identifying the probed areas. This is necessary so that the house can be effectively re-tested. Another inspector may be doing the re-testing.

OTHER TYPES OF INSPECTIONS

It is possible to do a mostly visual inspection of a house and observe conditions that do not meet current EIMA Installation Standards. This form of Inspection, or Consulting Service, should not be confused with, or claimed as, an EIFS Moisture Intrusion Inspection. To do so would be a breach of the Standards and Ethics of the Georgia Association of Home Inspectors.

Construction Disputes

A noted arbitration lawyer once remarked that his firm was the way it was (and thankful) because of construction disputes. While he expressed his sentiment in a light-hearted fashion, the truth of the current state of the construction industry shows the complex forces at play even at the moment that a project takes shape on the drawing board.

Already at this point, heads, egos and sensibilities interact in not entirely pleasant situations as the project is brought to fruition with contracts and signatures. The risk factor for construction disputes heightens when the first back-hoe rolls into the site or when the piling materials are set up.

Construction disputes are naturally occurring challenges in a project that involves the complex working and sometimes necessary precise orchestration of components like labor, equipment, tools and even unforeseen factors such as sudden market fluctuations and even natural disasters.

The impact of these disputes and even more importantly, the manner in which they are resolved can determine the outcome of a project and its future financial viability. Settling such disputes in a timely and precise manner is the objective of both the project leaders and the people involved, knowing that a positive outcome is a win-win situation.

Construction disputes today are normally resolved through a variety of channels and methods although there is a consensus that the single most effective strategy would be to find its root cause; to detect the core problem and apply a solution that involves the least amount of expense, time and collateral damage.

In settling construction disputes, the channels and methods normally follow a logical pattern flow based on the premise that one begins at the lowest and ultimately most direct method. If the dispute is not resolved there, then it takes another step and so on and so forth.

The first rung is through Step Negotiation which advocates a direct approach to settle the dispute. If within a prescribed time frame, the dispute is still not resolved, it is tackled by a Dispute Review Board. If for some reason, the parties still fail at an agreement, the problem can either go through a Mediation board or through legal Arbitration.

Companies today are employing a variety of new business strategies and techniques which allows them the prescience to detect areas where disputes are most likely to occur and thus employ necessary methods to prevent them.

EIFS Testing FAQ

EIFS – Some Practical Advice

Every day I am asked a multitude of questions concerning the EIFS “phenomena”. By now most of you are aware of the product and the accompanying problems. There is a fair amount of information out there regarding the technical aspects of EIFS. What I’d like to address is the practical side of the situation as it affects the buying and selling of real estate. I have compiled some common questions and what are reasonable answers in this article. It’s purpose is to provide you with information that will allow you to cut through the fog concerning the issue and make wise decisions.

Is EIFS really a problem in Atlanta?

Unfortunately, yes. It seems to be a problem anywhere that it rains.  As you know, sometimes bad things happen to good people. That’s life, but hiding your head in the sand won’t solve the problem or make it go away. However, we have tested over 400 homes in the Metro area and have found the following :

1. Over 99% of the tested EIFS homes have excessive moisture (over 20%) in at least one area.

2. In most cases we have been able to identify the source of the water intrusion and make specific recommendations to help eliminate it.

3. The age of the house usually determines how much, if any framing damage has occurred.

4. A helpful formula (stolen from Allen Golden of NC’s New Hanover County) is : Quantity X Time = Damage. In other words, the amount of damage that occurs is directly proportional to the length of time water has been leaking into the system and/or the amount of water that leaks into the system at any given time.

5. Serious and costly damage can be avoided if problems are identified and remedied quickly.

6.  A comprehensive inspection and moisture test is critical to identifying and rectifying problems.

7.  There are a lot of unqualified people performing EIFS inspections.

What about new houses with EIFS systems?

We have found excessive moisture in houses that are less than 3 months old. A few good rains are all that is needed, and inaction may result in costly repair bills.

Our home inspector said that the EIFS was not installed correctly and would have to be removed and replaced. Really?

The vast majority of EIFS houses in the Metro area are not detailed correctly (over 99%). I have never seen a system that was installed exactly according to the specifications. But that’s not always disastrous.

Many testers come to your house, perform their elaborate “dance”, and when you get the report it says ” The EIFS is not installed correctly and should be torn off and replaced.”   Well Hell!  I could have told you it wasn’t installed correctly over the phone!  Let’s just save some time right off.  Your EIFS is not installed entirely to the manufacturer’s specifications.  The question is : Is the system performing and will it continue to? And if it’s not, are there any practical repairs short of removing the whole system?

My recommendations   vary depending on the age of the house and the amount and location of excessive moisture that I find. For example : If the house is say, 9 years old and I determine that out of 40 openings, 10 have unacceptable moisture; I would probably recommend that the problem areas be retro-fitted and the non-problem areas simply be maintained with no additional upgrade other than normal maintenance. On the other hand, in a newer house with many incorrect EIFS details and excessive water at 10 out of 40 openings; I may recommend that the whole house be brought into compliance. Because the house has not been time tested, this is the only reasonable course of action.

Also, and this is very important : Builders in GA (and most other places) have the responsibility to install EIFS according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Deviations from this constitute violations of the Building Code, which is state law here. Typically, the builder is responsible for 4 years after closing (in GA). If your house is older, you may still have legal options. I’d recommend talking to good construction defect attorney.

How can I tell if the house has EIFS on it?

Typically :

The mesh used with EIFS is fiberglass, not metal wire.

The outer layer of EIFS is approx. 1/16″ thick, and applied to foam board.

It is fairly easy to drive an ice pick through EIFS.

What should I look for to determine if the EIFS has problems?

You can’t make this determination based on a visual inspection. This is why testing is so important. Even with my experience, sometimes I find water where I don’t expect it and some areas that may appear to be wet are dry. Of course, sometimes there are visual signs that may lead you to believe there is a problem, such as de-lamination, cracking, etc. But there are many possible causes for these conditions. Even though these areas usually require repair, they may or may not be caused by water. There is only one way to find out if excessive moisture exists. Test correctly.

How do I find a reputable EIFS testing company?

This is a bit tricky. Unscrupulous people are entering the field with the intent of making easy money for a while and then moving on to the next scam. This kind of thing happens in all businesses and always will. Others may have good intentions but simply don’t have the knowledge, experience, business or financial wherewithal to make it and will soon disappear. Still others sell a discounted, incomplete service which doesn’t provide the client with anything of value. Both of the latter leave the client in basically the same position as the scam artist and none of the three should be performing testing.

A large part of my business involves verifying other company’s test results. I can tell you that there are a lot of “testers” missing a lot of water.  These so called inspectors and testers give honest, hardworking professionals a bad name. To help avoid becoming a victim I recommend that you :

1. Make sure the company is licensed in their municipality.

2. Have them provide you with proof of personal injury and general liability insurance or provide a “hold harmless waiver”.

3. Find out how long they have been testing EIFS. (Unfortunately, 2 years is a long time relatively speaking)

4. Ask how many houses they have tested according to proper protocols. Experience is more important than length of time in business.

5. Find an inspector who is certified by the Exterior Design Institute (E.D.I.). E.D.I. was established in order to train and certify inspectors in order to raise the quality and consistency of EIFS inspections in the country. They are the only source of certified third party EIFS inspectors that has been approved by BOCA, which is one of the three code bodies in the United States.  You can learn more about E.D.I. at www.exteriordesigninst.com.

6. Ask if they have a construction background, and how much experience do they have in that field? Construction knowledge is critical to making successful recommendations.

7. Some companies refuse to testify in court. You may well need this service. If your tester is not willing to stand behind his work in court, you may have to re-test using a company that is willing and more importantly, qualified to provide expert witness testimony.

8. Although it is tempting, do not hire companies that offer to repair the problems. They may overstate the amount of work in order to increase their fee. Many installers have branched out into the testing business. But do you really want the firm that installed the EIFS improperly to begin with, to test it for problems?

9. Call the Better Business Bureau. They may have useful information.

10. Ask to see a sample report. Verify that the company provides what you need. Ensure that the location of all trouble spots and the amount of excess moisture are identified exactly.

11. Check references. Really!

What is involved in the EIFS test?

The protocols call for the house to be tested extensively. A non-invasive scanner may be used, but only to identify areas of excessive moisture and determine which areas should be probed. This device will not read the exact moisture content. An invasive probe meter is required to perform this test, as the recommendations are based on the moisture content. The scanner will drastically reduce the number of probes needed and will typically identify more trouble areas than the probe alone. Don’t believe the companies that are too lazy or incompetent to do the job right and try to scare you by saying that probing causes hundreds and hundreds of holes. Since I’ve been using the scanner, the amount of probes needed has dropped 80-90%.  An average house house may have 50 holes. After they’re filled, I’ll bet that you can’t find them unless I show them to you.

Very Important : A scanner cannot be used alone unless no areas of excessive moisture are found. The wet areas must be probed for rot and ACTUAL MOISTURE CONTENT, then mapped to meet the test protocol. It should also be noted that neither instrument will detect damaged areas that are not wet, although probing does allow you to feel the firmness of the structure.

But I have talked to companies that say probing is not needed. What gives?

With some exceptions, these folks usually fall in the realm of the uneducated.  It’s not that I like probing houses.  It’s way boring.  But it’s the only way to verify water. I’m aware of one reliable instrument which does not probe. It’s the mysterious “special device” they talk about on BSA’s site. It’s actually called the Tramex WWD. It was designed especially for testing EIFS and does a very good job. And it should, it costs about $1100.00. It does have it’s limitations though. I have 2 of them and may be the most experienced user in this country. It does an excellent job of finding moisture quickly. However, it does not detect the actual level as a percentage. Since the protocol’s recommendations change according to the actual moisture content, the actual content must be determined. This can only be done with a probe type meter. It is also prone to reading “false positives”.  This occurs when the Tramex picks up what it thinks is water but is actually something else.  You have to confirm the Tramex reading with a moisture probe.  There is simply no other way. 

Example :  There’s large company in Atlanta that claims that they can calibrate the WWD to determine moisture content of EIFS and as a result, do not have to probe. That’s really interesting. I can’t help but wonder how these ” inspectors” can achieve this feat but the crack engineers at Tramex can’t figure it out. Sure makes the Realtors happy though. Now that I think about it, maybe that’s the business that they’re really in, making real estate agents happy. Hmmm…

If you find yourself in court and your expert is deftly testifying about how he found the moisture using the Tramex by itself…well, your in for a rough ride when the other side’s attorney gets his shot at your “expert”.

It’s also not enough to know that there is water in the wall. You must know how much and you must know the source. This could be the difference in simply caulking a window or removing and retro-fitting all the EIFS around that window. A report that simply states “the area is wet and should be repaired” is of little use to anyone. I would not as the seller, allow a buyer to back out of a deal based on incomplete and inconclusive information such as this. A seller is entitled to know exactly what the recommendations are and how they were arrived at.

But hey, if you insist on having what I consider to be an incomplete test by a company that states in their letter to EIMA (see the whole text at www.eifsfacts.com/building.html ) the following load of BS:

“Just as important, however, is the issue that inspectors should NEVER recommend repairs to be performed. They have an obligation (usually under contract) to report only what they see. Rarely, if ever, are they a part of the transaction between buyers and sellers, and thus, have no right or responsibility to inject their belief or opinion into the contract process. When they make recommendations for repairs, they perform a significant disservice to the real estate sales process.

BSA as a company, strongly adheres to this principle of reporting ONLY what we see, NOT what we feel or think a buyer or seller should do!”

If this makes any sense to you then leave here and go to www.bsainspector.com/eifs.html.   They’ll fix you up.  If not, keep reading.  I believe just the opposite of their philosophy.  Interpretation of test results and what we see, recommendations, and our opinions are EXACTLY why our clients hire us.  Anybody can see it.  the value is in understanding it.

Will the holes be noticeable?

Usually no, and as I said before, the amount of needed holes has dropped drastically. Our typical test requires 20-40 probes. The holes are small, about 1/8th inch in diameter. Each probe consists of 2 holes, 1 inch apart. We carry every color of sealant available, and can usually achieve excellent color matches. Sample holes can be demonstrated for the owner and their approval received before any more probes are created. Unless they know where to look, most people cannot find our holes after they are patched.

How much does proper EIFS testing cost?

I can’t speak for other testers, but my fees are in line with those who do a comprehensive job. On houses up to about 4000 square feet (in the Atlanta area) the fee will range from $350.00 to about $800.00, depending on how much EIFS there is. We give quotes over the phone. ( If you’re an inspector and want to know our fees, you don’t have to pretend to be a real customer. Just admit it and we’ll tell you the fee too.) Houses over 4000 square feet will cost more depending on the size.

That’s a lot of money! Why does the test cost so much?

1. Cost perception depends on your point of view. Consider the following :

2. My fees are calculated at a rate of approximately $125.00 per hour. On an hourly basis, this is less expensive than most inspectors charge for a general home inspection.

3. I am more experienced in residential EIFS testing than anyone else I’ve heard of.

4. The EIFS tester must understand exactly how the house is put together and what is involved in locating and repairing the source of the water.

5. They must have excellent communications skills and an understanding of the emotions of buyers and sellers in order to keep the findings in proper perspective, yet honest and informative.

6. They must have the ability to make sound, cost efficient recommendations that will work.

7. The equipment necessary to do the job right costs thousands of dollars.

8. If there is water in the system, my clients expect me to find it and tell them what to do about it. This is meticulous, time consuming work.

9. Proper documentation that is understandable to the layperson is critical and is also extremely time consuming.

10. A $650.00 EIFS test that ultimately saves the client tens of thousands of dollars is a much better value than a $200.00 test that gives little or no useful information.

What information should the EIFS report contain?

In order to be of value, the report should contain a minimum of the following:

1. Basic Information : Date, Tester, Weather Conditions, Type of sealant, Test Equipment Used.

2. Installation Details : What details deviate from specifications. Are they causing problems?

3. Readings : Exact locations and moisture content of probed areas.

4. Recommendations : Specific recommendations concerning problem correction.

5. Photographs : Locations of problem areas and elevations.

How should the EIFS report be used?

A good report can be used for 2 distinct purposes :

1. It will identify areas that are in need of repair and state what is needed to achieve a good chance of success and what should have been done in the first place.

2. It can be used as a sales tool when the property goes on the market. Unlike a home inspection report, the report can be given to future prospective buyers. The client will then be in a position to prove to the prospect that corrective measures actually solved the problems, assuming they did of course.   The longer the time period is that the seller can prove the house has been dry, the better. This should give the future buyer a pretty good level of comfort.  Sellers please keep this in mind :   Although the report can be used as an effective sales tool,  I can’t write a marketing piece for your home.  My reports are objective and we tell it like it is… the good, the bad, and the ugly.  Even on dry houses, the report will include any details that are found to be incorrect, functioning or not.  Realtors usually hate this, but in the long run I’m saving everybody’s tail.

How do I find reputable EIFS repair contractors?

We recommend that you call EIFS distributors and ask them for a list of reputable repair contractors. They are in a good position know the strengths of many contractors. From that point you should choose like you would any other contractor. For more info on picking out any kind of a contractor, check out “How to Pick a Contractor”.

How can I tell if the problems have been eliminated?

I recommend that the problem areas be re-tested 3 – 6 months after the repair. It takes many weeks for the existing water to dry but it will dry if the source is eliminated. The re-inspection fee is much lower than the original due to the limited nature of the test.

Can you “Certify” that my house is dry?

If I could do that, I’d be spending my mornings playing golf and my evenings catfishing. The truth is that no one can be 100% certain that a house is totally dry and damage free. The only way to do that would be to remove the EIFS completely.  However, I can provide you with a report that states that I tested the house to the most demanding protocols in the country and the house tested dry, or that it tested dry after repairs were made (assuming it does, of course).

Due to the limitations of the test, no honest informed testing company will guarantee that they can identify all water intrusion and damage.

How will this affect future sales of the property?

No one knows the answer to that. There are just too many variables. I do know that every EIFS house should be tested. Testing and repairing early will allow the house to establish a track record of being dry. Again, the longer the period of time the better. Also, remember Allen’s equation : “Quantity X Time = Damage”. The longer you wait to test and repair, the more expensive it’s likely to be.

I purcased a 4 year old home  6 months ago.  I am relocating and just sold my home.  A home inspector just came out and found a leak in the roof.   The original roofing contractor will not return my calls.  The roof has a 20 year warranty that is not transferrable from the original owner.  I am the second owner.

According to the home inspector, there was no flashing installed in the roof seams when the roof was put on.    Any advice?

I believe your beef is with the Builder. In GA  they are legally responsible for things like that for 4 years. The roof warranty is basically worthless. These usually cover material failure only, and on top of that are pro-rated.

Looks like you’re going to have to eat this one. Get the next house inspected first. It’s a lot cheaper than flashing.

I have a four year old, one story house on a slab.  The foundation was treated with sheets of foam insulation and sealed with a lamina.  Are you familiar with this practice?   Where can I find info about removal, liability, etc?

Installing foam on foundations was required by many building codes for several years until a year or so ago.  The purpose was to conserve energy by insulating the foundation   Then, somebody figured out that termites could travel through the foam undetected and invade the
house.  That posed the question…”Save energy or save the house from termites? Hmmm…”  It’s generally accepted that in order to conserve energy at home, you have to have to a home that isn’t in the mist of being eaten alive.  In short, the foam’s got to go.  It’s nobody’s fault.  It’s just one of those speed bumps on the road of life.

Foundation insulation is simple to remove and provides a good way to keep yourself out of trouble for a weekend.   It’s just 1/2″ foam nailed or glued to the foundation and covered with a thin coating of cement.  You can easily cut it away with a circular saw outfitted with a masonry blade, or a small grinder, or you can just rip it off by hand if you’ve got a lot of nervous energy.  Just make sure that you produce at least a 2″  “vision strip” of visible foundation so that future termite tunnels can be seen. If you see existing tunnels, head for the phone and call the pest control guy.

Of course you could wimp out and pay somebody to do it for you.  As long as you understand that you’ll be overcharged, it’s OK.

I hope that I’ve answered some of your questions concerning EIFS. I also welcome any other questions regarding the practical side of EIFS, home inspection, repair, or maintenance.

Construction Arbitration

Of late, there have been quite a few doubts that have been raised regarding construction arbitration even though it is considered relatively faster as well as cheaper than litigating. The problem is that panels set up to arbitrate tend to be heavily biased towards the construction industry and so normal citizens will not have their constitutional rights protected as they would not get a chance to go through a jury trial.

Avoidance Is The Best Option

Obviously, the best course of action would be to avoid construction arbitration by not getting involved in a dispute in the first place, even despite your construction contract having a clause dealing with arbitration to settle disputes when they arise. In essence, the arbitration is a kind of mini trial in which both parties present their case along with evidence and witnesses in front of an arbitrator selected by either party.

Though construction arbitration is meant to be both speedy as well as cost-effective, there are a number of factors that need consideration before deciding on this course of action ahead of litigation. Some of these factors include arbitration clause, conditions precedent, contract based claim time requirements, mechanics lien, placement of arbitration clause in all contracts, and process, cost, arbitrator and time involved.

The decision to arbitrate or litigate will generally depend on how big is your project and in case of big and complex projects, then arbitration will take a back seat to litigation because the latter will be more cost-effective and also advantageous since it will allow for conducting detailed pre-trial discovery as well as dispositions.

The bottom line is that arbitration that was meant to allow construction experts to settle disputes in a cost effective manner, has not lived up to such expectations and is now virtually the same as litigation.

EIFS Repair

Having an EIFS system put onto your business can do wonders to restore interest and change the perception of your store.  When you had the EIFS system installed you would have had to go to a professional EIFS installation specialist so there should not be any issues with your siding.  If however you are experiencing a need for EIFS repair then you should go back to the professionals as soon as possible.

EIFS is an excellent exterior finishing system to turn the most regular of buildings into something special.  You can create a new style of building by just having an EIFS system installed without having to change any of the interior of the building you already love.  The only problem with and EIFS system is getting EIFS repair.  Since EIFS is made without drainage in most cases unless you specifically asked for it, getting EIFS repair can mean the difference between a healthy staff and one that calls out sick due to Black Mold allergy infections.

Mold is everywhere.  Water damage to an EIFS system is the perfect place that mold wants to be to grow and spread.  You want to contact your EIFS specialist as soon as the damage occurs.  Because of the extensive legal action that took place in the early 90’s the people who now install EIFS are very professional and ready to help make sure you have a great product on your building.  You will be able to find a great contractor to help you out with EIFS repair in a quick and efficient manner.  Go back to the invoices and warranties that you received when you had EIFS retrofitted and you will highly likely find information about what to do for EIFS repair.  In no time you will be able to have any problems patched up and there will be no mold growth to make everyone, including yourself, sick.  

EIFS Repair Contractors

OK, so you need repairs.  Now what? The following guidelines should help.

Most of them can be used when hiring any type of contractor, EIFS, remodeling, or otherwise. many of my client’s lives would be much easier if they would have followed a few basic rules when they hired their contractor(s). Of course if they would have, they wouldn’t be my clients. The larger the job, the more important these little details become. Some things may not be necessary on small jobs.

If possible, use your inspection report as a scope of work. A good report that is based on a good inspection will outline the repairs that should be made to your house. The report may not give you a step by step guide for each repair, but it should include the expected results of the fix. Do yourself a favor. Don’t hire an inspector who also does repairs. If you do, make sure that they understand that they will not be performing the repairs on this house. Repairs will need to be done by competent and experienced contractors.

FINDING THE RIGHT CONTRACTOR:

 Finding a contractor isn’t hard, Here in Atlanta, you can’t swing a dead cat without hitting one. But, finding the best contractor for EIFS repairs is like finding a good contractor for anything else… it can be tough unless you follow a few simple guidelines.

1. Start with a goal of finding 3 licensed contractors to make repair bids.3 bids should be plenty if you follow these steps.

2. Professionals to ask:

Qualified EIFS inspectors are an excellent source for information regarding EIFS contractors. The reason an EIFS inspector would be helpful is because they have seen all levels of work, the good, the bad, and the ugly. (NOTE: NEVER, NEVER, NEVER let the inspector bid on the contract that he/she recommends. This is the proverbial fox watching the henhouse. You also need to be aware of your inspecting company and/or individual inspector trying to become your contractor.  You could also be roped into allowing your inspector/contractor to become the “so called” insurance company that wants to insure the work they just completed.) 

A quality contractor that I have found can be contacted at  www.BNBCI.com

 Places to look:

A. Yellow Pages:

The yellow pages are a good place to get basic information on a company. You can retrieve their telephone numbers and call the Better Business Bureau  for a history on the company, if they are listed with the BBB.

B.  You can also call each company listed and ask questions about the company. Some determining factors should be1. Is there someone there to talk to during business hours?

2. Was the receptionist/secretary couteous, helpful to assist?

3. Are they state licensed or certified? NOTE: Most southeastern states require a license for all contractors except Georgia, but there are some special licenses that contractors in Georgia obtain such as heating/air,   electrical, plumbing, etc., but not general contractors. Always ask for proof    of license.

4. Ask if their estimates can be itemized for possible litigation purposes.

5. Are they insured with Workmans Compensation and General Liability.

            !!! This is a very big factor !!!

C.  The internet:

The internet is also a great source for information. A well known web site for contractors is The National Association of Home Builders (www.nahb.com). The NAHB has a registry of contractors who have successfully received   training concerning EIFS directly from them.

D.  Look at and talk to the contractors. First impressions can be very telling. If they look kinda scary just walking up your sidewalk, do you really want them    around your house for days or weeks? Remember, the owner or superintendent is probably the neatest one of the bunch. It has become common practice for contractors to request a fee for some estimates. A professional contractor will credit the estimate fee back to the customer if work is approved and completed per the contract. If you are still comfortable with them after a chat, invite them to bid on the job. Provide each with the same scope of work. That way, everybody’s bidding on the exact same job. Sometimes methods will differ, but the end result (especially the warranty)should be the same. Your “bid package” should contain at least the following items, and they should be included in the final contract:

1.  Scope of work – This can be obtained from your inspection report, you can use the report itself, or you can make your own list. If you require specific elements such as name brand or type of materials, include these. The more detail the better.

2.  Time Frame – A time range for the beginning and ending dates of thejob. Remember, though customers sometimes cause  unnecessary delays. Don’t be surprised if the contractor wants to penalized you if this happens. That’s only fair.

3.  Payment Schedule – The best schedule for you is no payments until the work is completed. However, most contractors won’t agree to this. I know…many sources say that a goodcontractor should have the financial resources to cover the job.The fact is that on a job of several thousand dollars, most contractors will require payments due at certain increments of completion. Remember, just as it’s not wise on your part to pay the whole fee up front, it’s also not   wise on the contractor’s part to trust you to pay the whole fee at the end. This trust and honesty thing works  both ways. Let all bidders know that payment schedules should reflect a percentage of retainage at all times. Remember, payments are made at increments of work completed, not callendar dates. Specify that signed “Lien Waivers” will   be collected as the sub-contractors finish their work. This ensures  that they have been paid and prevents you from having to   pay for   the work twice. In most states, even if you have paid  the general contractor, if he hasn’t paid his subs they can come  after you for the money. Scary, isn’t it!

4.  Change order agreements – Make sure that everyone understands the need to have a written agreement for changes made during the course of the job. A change order should describe the change, who requests it, how the changes will affect the schedule, and how it  will affect the work budget. Changes shouldn’t take place without this form, signed by the contractor and you. By the way,don’t request changes from the subcontractors that you didn’t hire. remember, they’re working on your project but they don’t   work for you. The best thing to do is plan the job thoroughly and keep change  orders to a minimum. You don’t know how expensive they can be.

5.  Miscellaneous requirements – Be sure to include things like proof of general liability insurance (in case they hurt your house) and   workman’s   compensation (in case they hurt themselves). Do not accept a”Certificate of Insurance” from the contractor. Call their  insurance agent and have them fax you one. Also, if you don’t  want 5 guys working on your house at 7:00 am on Sunday morning, now’s the time to say so. Include an accceptable range of work days and hours.

No matter how you find them, now is the time to check their references and view past work. Do not skip this step. It’s one of the most important. Ask the contractor for references of work that is similar to yours. Try to check jobs performed over a period of time. Say…one in progress, one a year old, and maybe one that is several years old. Talk to other customers, ask them what they liked and didn’t like about the experience (a large job is indeed an experience).

To sum it up:

It is recommended that you need to get 2 – 3 estimates from different contractors. Once the estimates are received, sit down and compare all the estimates. Make sure all items are covered, if one estimate covers something that another estimate doesn’t. Make a note to call the contractor(s) and ask why they are estimating or why they are not estimating something. Before making such a large decision, you need to be able to compare apples to apples not apples to oranges. NOTE: Do not accept a lump sum estimate for several different tasks, because it could be an expensive lesson, it would also work against you if you were in/going to negotiate the scope or a dollar amount with your contractor. It also leaves you open for unjust additional cost that can be added but should have been bid. Here again, don’t get caught in that low bid…got the job…but it ended up being higher than the high bid.

NOW YOU HAVE CHOSEN A CONTRACTOR

FIRST have their insurance carrier send proof of insurance to you!! Do not accept a copy from the contractor. 

SECOND make sure you have a contract. Read it carefully, it should have provisions for an estimated starting date, estinated completion date, total dollar amount (advancement if required), a draw schedule, a clause for any additional work has to be submitted to you for written approval prior to the work being done, and finally a warranty for their workmanship for at least one year and by all means make the contractor get a permit.

If your job is substantial enough in size, make sure your contractor agrees to allow you to have third party inspections of his work while in progress and make the payments schedule to the third party approvals. All this does, is give you another layer of protection and any good contractor will be happy to allow it.

 You’re all set. Remember, QUALITY OF THE JOB, THE ACCOUNTABILITY OF SERVICES RENDERED AND THE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR HOME is what’s most important. Rest assured that although the job may not run perfectly, you’ve done all you can do. Expect problems to arise on large jobs. Many times the difference between a good contractor and a great one is not the fact that problems come up, but how they are resolved. Believe me, there are contractors out there that do care.

LAST, and most importantly… Try and have some fun with the project.

EIFS Class Action Settlement

01/19/98 Flash— The North Carolina Court of Appeals has decided to allow the Defendants of Ruff, et al v. Parex, et al to include in the lawsuit their claims against homebuilders, subcontractors, and other third parties.

EIFS Class Action Settlement Announced

A settlement agreement has been reached between the named claimants and two of the manufacturers involved in the North Carolina EIFS class action lawsuit.  The agreement has not been accepted by the Court as of yet.  A Fairness Hearing is set to be held this fall to determine  whether or not the agreement will be accepted.

Some highlights include:

  • All homes in the US with EIFS made by “Senergy” and “Thoro” are covered, unless the owner chooses to “opt out”.
  • If you want to opt out, you must do so in the opt out period.
  • A Fairness Hearing will be held on September 11, 1998 to determine whether the proposed settlement is fair, reasonable and adequate.
  • Homeowners who are claiming damages must submit a claims form.
  • Accepted properties will be inspected to determine the extent of damages and the amount of repairs and/or money awarded will be determined by the Claims Administrator.

For an actual copy of the agreement,  go to www.kinsella.com , or surf over to our links page for that one and more.

EIFS System

Exterior Insulation Finish Systems or as they are commonly known as an EIFS system, are fantastic ways to finish or restore a building.  An EIFS system will not only finish off the exterior of the building but they also provide insulation and waterproofing systems in one composite system.  An EIFS system can be used on old or new buildings, homes, schools, hospitals, government or public buildings.  EIFS is a form of stucco but has much more to offer than traditional stucco.

Traditional stucco is also referred to as Portland Cement Plaster because it is sand, Portland Cement and water.  When you use stucco to create a finish on a wall you have to use at least three layers to get the traditional effect and you need to pre-insulate the wall.  Stucco in its traditional form will not provide any insulation to an area and will form a very hard and solid wall therefore not providing any water drainage either.

What makes an EIFS system special is that it will insulate and that on certain types of EIFS systems there will be drainage methods as well.  EIFS can be retrofitted to buildings that are currently in use and EIFS can be used on buildings that are just being built.  The benefit to the EIFS system is that it will give you a much more modern look then traditional stucco and having an EIFS system fitted to your building will also help improve energy efficiency.

There was a time when people chose to finish their buildings with stucco to make their buildings stand out.  With a new EIFS system you can have many different types of finishes to a building that will give off a much more modern feel.  You can even have an EIFS system installed over a previous exterior stucco finish.

Need an EIFS or other contractor? Clueless? Read our EIFS repair guide and find out what needs to be done and how to find someone to do it.

Exterior Insulation

Insulation is used to help prevent heat from entering or escaping your home.  In the winter, insulation helps to keep your house warm, and in the summer it helps keep your house cool if you use an air conditioner.  Insulation is not put into the walls in the middle of your house since it doesn’t matter much if you lose heat from one room to another.  Where it does matter though is in exterior insulation, the walls exposed to the elements.

The most common kind of exterior insulation is fiberglass.  First invented in the 1930’s fiberglass insulation is composed of many bundles of glass fibers.  Fiberglass insulation replaced asbestos insulation which was commonly used previously.  While asbestos is a great insulator, sometimes even superior to fiberglass, it is extremely dangerous and frequently causes an often incurable and deadly lung disease called mesothelioma. 
One of the most important factors when it comes to exterior insulation is how well it can restrict the flow of heat.  Many types of insulation operate by creating many small pockets of air which heat has a difficult time flowing through.  Other things you’ll want to consider when picking insulation is how susceptible it is to water.  Fiberglass insulation is not damaged by water.  Aside from that you’ll also want to consider the ease of installation and any kind of maintenance that would be required.  Once again fiberglass is popular here because you can simply unroll it to install it and it requires zero maintenance.

Aside from protecting your home from heat loss, insulation also helps to insulate your home from any loud noises outside that might disturb you while you are in your home.  Some types of insulation can even help serve as a firewall to help slow the spread of fires.

EIFS Maintenance Guidelines

PART I – MOLD/MILDEW

General

Mold and mildew are a black/gray, green, red or purple growth that can form at certain locations on the building exterior. The growth of mold is more common in southern climates but can occur anywhere.

Description

Mildew is a fungus that spreads as microscopic spores are carried by the wind. When the spores land on a surface, they feed either on the surface itself or on organic airborne dirt that has accumulated on the surface.The growth of mildew/mold is encouraged by moisture, warmth, organic nutrients, and darkness. (North elevations of buildings are susceptible in particular.)Since the spores travel through the air, their behavior tends to be erratic. During rainy periods, the mildew can appear on previously unaffected areas. To the unaided eye, mildew frequently resembles dirt.

Mildew and mold like warm, moist, shady locations, such as under eaves, near or behind bushes, shrubbery and trees and on soffits and walls that are frequently shaded from the sun. However, during humid and/or rainy periods, mil-dew/mold can obtain a foothold on virtually any exterior area.

Cleaning Recommendations

Option No.1 –   Pre-wet the area with clean water and wash with a solution of three (3) parts water to one (1) part household bleach. Apply solution and let set of 15-20 minutes. Do not let solution dry on the surface. (A mild liquid detergent or soap may be added to this solution to improve cleaning ability.)

Use a soft bristle brush (non-metal) and gently scrub the affected areas. Rinse thoroughly (use low pressure lawn and garden type hose) and repeat as needed. Note: Water down all shrubbery, trees, and flowers near areas where the solution is being used. Wear protective eyewear and protect your hands and arms with gloves and a long sleeve shirt as necessary. Before adding a liquid detergent to any household bleach solution read the labels to see If they contain ammonia or ammonium compounds. Bleaches should never be mixed with any detergents or cleaners containing ammonia. These-mixtures can cause harmful vapors. Follow all instructions on the label.

Option No. 2  –  Use available commercial cleaners specifically formulated to clean mold and mildew from Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems.

Recommendations to Avoid Mildew

1. Mildew/mold is an organic growth supported by warm, moist, shady conditions with the following contributing factors:

        A. Climatic conditions: mold/mildew is more significant in a warm humid environment.

        B. Texture of finish: coarse textures will collect more airborne dirt with potential organic nutrients than finer textures.

        C. The proximity of shrubbery and trees: creates shade and reduces air circulation. This reduces natural evaporation.

         D. Poor drainage from roofs: will maintain a high level of moisture in designated areas.

         E. Internal moisture within Exterior Wall Systems: will maintain a high level of moisture in designated areas. This may be from internal condensation or physical leakage.

As indicated, each of these conditions are contributing factors to mold/mildew. The climatic condition is an environmental issue, however, the locations for trees and shrubbery in southern climates may be positioned away from the building, particularly the north elevation to promote natural air circulation for natural evaporation.

 

PART 2 – AIRBORNE DIRT

General

The accumulation of dust and dirt in many locations can be a constant maintenance problem. Some contributing factors are as follows:

A. Site conditions – sources of dirt

B. Soil splashing against the system

C. Climatic conditions (sun, rain, wind, or temperature extremes)

D. Building location

        1. City (high density- significant vehicular traffic and manufacturing with resultant airborne pollution)

        2. Suburbs (low density- minor airborne pollution)

        3. Near industrial manufacturing facilities

E. Amount of precipitation or rain (insufficient rainfall to be effective for normal self-cleaning action).

F. Exhaust venting onto finish areas.

Description

In general wind born dust and dirt is an inert accumulation that can possibly contribute to the discoloration of EIFS.

Typically, this is an aesthetic issue and will not affect the overall performance of the EIFS.

If it is suspected that a “chemical contamination” is a contributing factor to the discoloration then a sample should be forwarded to an independent test lab to determine the contaminate. This information should then be reviewed with the EIFS manufacturer.

Cleaning and Prevention Recommendations

Option No. 1 For dirt accumulation at the first floor/ foundation from splash-back due to uncontrolled drainage from the roof.

*The cleaning procedure should consist of a household liquid detergent mixed with water.

        1. Pre-wet the affected areas

        2. Apply soapy water with soft bristle brush, scrub gently, let set for15-20 minutes. (Do not let solution dry on surface.)

        3. Rinse off thoroughly with low pressure garden type hose.

*Try the cleaning procedure in a small inconspicuous area to make sure it does not adversely affect the EIFS.

For more stubborn stains, it may be necessary to use a stronger cleaner formulated for EIFS.

Prevention of splash-back: Remove a layer of soil next to the foundation and replace with a layer of crushed stone or other mulch material to prevent splash-back of water onto the building.

Option No. 2  –  This is for general airborne dirt accumulation. An evaluation should be made when it is aesthetically desirable to clean the entire building.

 

PART 3 LAWN SPRINKLEROVERSPRAY

General

Reddish colored staining typically originates as a metallic stain from excessive chemicals or iron oxides, contained in the local water supply. This discoloration is a result of a stain from sprinkler overspray on the exterior wall system.

Description

These areas of discoloration generally are an aesthetic issue only. They can be removed with a commercial cleaner formulated for EIFS.

The longer these types of stains remain, the more difficult they will be to remove. In two-three years, these stains may become permanent. If the stains are permanent, it is necessary to neutralize the stains to prevent bleed-through and re-coat the affected area.

Recommendations to Avoid Lawn Sprinkler Overspray

I . Readjust or relocate the sprinklers that are the cause of the overspray.

 

PART 4 – SEALANT JOINTS

General

EIFS is a monolithic, barrier wall-type system, sometimes also referred to as a face sealed system.

The integrity of this barrier must be maintained with a correctly performing sealant joint at all dissimilar materials (i.e., windows, doors, louvers, etc.), to prevent moisture intrusion.

If the sealant is not maintained through some type of minimum Preventative Maintenance Program, water infiltration problems may occur over time.

The life expectancy of a quality, correctly installed sealant material is 3-5 years under severe ultra-violet (sunlight) and weather extremes. In less than severe conditions, 8-10 years is likely before replacement should be considered. (Consult the sealant manufacturer for the additional information.)

Recommendations for Observation of Sealant Joint Performance

EIFS when correctly detailed and properly installed does not allow water migration through the wall.

The water migration (leaks) will typically occur at one of the following:

I. Failure of sealant at building expansion joints.

2. Failure of sealant at transition to dissimilar material

        A. Flashing component

        B. Window/head, jamb or sill

        C. Louver/Head, jamb or sill

        D. Penetration through EIF System

        1. Handrail connection details

        2. Electrical conduit

        3. Utility Piping

                  4. Etc.

All leaks should be documented as to their location and whether they appear in gentle rains, or wind driven rains and from what direction. Also, determine how long the leak continues after the rain stops.

This information, in conjunction with a thorough observation of the exterior wall system, will assist in quickly locating the source of the leak for remedial repairs.

Field “Trouble Shooting” Guide

1. Observe the joint. There should be a uniform bead of sealant (uniform in width and appearance.)

2. Observe any separation within the sealant joint.

        A. Adhesive failure – separation of sealant from dissimilar material.

        B. Cohesive failure – separation of the sealant internally.

3. Observe aging. This is a progressive, natural change in the chemical and physical properties of the sealant material.Two-part Two-part olyurethane type sealants are self-sacrificing. The surface is constantly wearing  away and appears as a chalking or oxidation type film that is constantly washed away by rainstorms. This is normal for this material and does not indicate failure. Two-part polyurethane type sealants are self-sacrificing. The surface is constantly wearing away and appears as a chalking or oxidation  type film that is constantly washed away by rainstorms. This is normal for this material and does not indicate failure.                                                                                      

4. Observe any discoloration and/or bleeding.

This may represent a defective product defective product deteriorating.

5. Observe deformation.

This is any change of form or shape produced in a body by a stress or force.

6. Observe cracking, crazing or “alligatoring”.

These conditions represent a deterioration within the sealant joint induced by either excessive movement or aging.

Please contact the EIFS manufacturer for any additional information.